Introduction
Bra technology is a field of fashion design that has seen tremendous changes due to advancements in the technical skills of mankind. This field of technology has undergone chronological changes from the earlier methods of designs to the cutting edge modern methods like Bioform technology in bra designs. The bra technology field encompasses clothe designs and textile revolutions techniques that provide newer and newer options. Unlike the formal disciplines of engineering fields, bra technology requires both creativity and technical skills. For an individual to be a bra fashion designer he/she must possess proficiency in several disciplines; for example, art and design, computer knowledge, and skillful administration in the fashion industry. In the recent past, the field calls for an extra understanding of computer software that can develop new fashions. In this essay, we will give a detailed history of bra technology and how it has been used in the design. Also in the analysis, we will consider both the positive and negative effects of wearing bras in the context of our society in general.
History of Bra Technology
Though the bra fashion started a long time ago, the word brassier was framed and reported in 1907 in the Vogue report. The word originated from the French word meaning to offer support. Bras were worn a long time ago by women from Crete and were considered usual wears. A healthier Reform Bodice bra did not offer support and was made of net mesh. The fashioners only made breast retaining items that suited the simple dress styles. “None of the first manufacturers of breasts supporters managed to prosper after 1910. Probrassieres had harmonized only with little-worn styles, adopted by resolute reformers or women who prized physical freedom above high fashion,” (Farrell –Beck and Gau, p. 17). The initial technologies of bras are similar to the 1980s and 1990s versions also called camisoles. The term camisole was first used in the early 1900s but it was in 1905 that the term was changed to bust bodice.
The revolution of bra fashion took place in 1914 when Mary Phelps-Jacobs first patented bra under the name Caresse Crosby. The American holds the record for patenting bra; though, it is not certain that hers was the first bra. It is also not clear whether or not the idea was hers as it is suggested that she made either had the original idea or provided aid in stitching the garment. The bra was made by joining two silk handkerchiefs and then a baby ribbon was sewn to make straps. She could not raise many sales from the bra idea and she decided to sell the patent to Warners. “Jacob later sold her patent for $1,500to a company that went on to make $15 million off her invention,” (Berry, p.14). Warners since then became bra makers with measurements in inches as the bras from that time were not categorized as large, medium, or small.
Symington Side Lacer was the first bra to get a fashion taste due to its strengthened bust bodice. Before the Symington Side Lacer, the 1918 bras were just fabrics laced with traps. The new technology flattened the bust due to the side lacing effect of Symington Side Lacer. The term bra then became predominant replacing the initial brassier and since then we have always referred to this undergarment as the bra.
The lacing was replaced by Lastex. This new idea had the capability of figure control and it was put on with ease. The model was worn with backless dresses in the 1930s and hooked on the side to fasten it. The most recognizable piece of rubber garment remembered ardently by bra wearers is the Playtex girdle made in the late 1950s. It was worn even in the early 1960s and as it was designed, it left imprints in the skin due to the evaporation holes left on the girdle garment. After a period of wearing the garment, bodies appeared to develop rashes likened to the German measles. This garment was made of purely rubber material and was cream in color.
Bra makers after the year 1930 made the garment with different cup sizes from cotton fabrics (lace and net). One of the most popular bras of the 1930s is the Kestos and it was later referred to as Kestos Utility Bra. It was a simple yet classy garment that can still be put on today. In the year 1935, the history of bras took a new twist when Warners introduced sizing of bras namely: A, B, C, and D. Warners set the size standards that were later adopted outside the US territory by the British in the 1950s. In Britain, bra sizes were described as junior, and medium before the adoption of the new standards.
Utility bras of the 1940s were affected by the shortage of materials following the effects of war. Due to lack of materials, the bras in this era were brief but still retained the Utility symbol. Bra orders were above average though supplies were limited. According to (Hill, p. 64), materials were not easily available, and even when they were, the administration restricted their use. This was a result of the effect of World War II. One of the manufacturers of bras in the 1950s was Twilfit (a household that used to make roll-ons). Bras users also indulged in making homemade garments using guidelines from magazines. The 1950s was a crucial period not only in the bra-making industry but also for textile engineers due to changes in textile technology.
1950s’ Sweater Girl Glamour
In the 1950s history records that the majority of women were craving glamour. This follows the after-effects of war. Excellent bras were made by several fashion designers; for example, Mark and Spencer, Maidenform, Triumph, and Berlei. All these fashion labels made good bras that had correct pointed circular, cone-shaped bras. The conical effect gave users support silhouettes for those who wanted to emulate the body curves of Hollywood aces like Jane Russell and Lana Turner. Since then bras became more and more dynamic reflecting the dire needs like making light bras, pretty and easy to wash bras, and use of nylon.
The bra designs of the 1960s were made ideal in knitted sweater clothes. The leading designs were from the dominant fashion houses like British Mark and Spencer, Twilfit, Berlei, Exquisite Form, Lovable, and Playtex among other bra line labels. Soon after, Elastometrics technology brought changes to the industry as it was now possible to make undergarments that were powered net fabrics. The earlier discussed elastic bras with backs and traps were kicked out of fashion by the new versions of Courtauld’s Spanzelle and Lycra fittings. In this way, these newer versions solved the problems of overstretched bras made of rubber bits that could lose elasticity. The technology now made the bras not lose their grip
There was an upset when Yves St. Laurent styled a blouse that could be worn without a bra. Feminist activists wanted women to burn their most treasured wear; bra. This idea was viewed with negative suspicion and it is said that very few women stopped wearing their bras. The proponents of the idea themselves could not do without bras. Only women with small breasts wore heavy and opaque clothes without bras and only the brave could go without bras with a sheer top. This whole concept caused changes in bra fashion in the 1960s. In 1964 Rudi Gernreich made ‘no bra bra’ ideal for women with small breasts. The design was made from light fabrics with see-through netting. Following this bra design, Warners developed body stockings in the succeeding year.
The concept of bra wearing changed in the 1960s. The older generation initially preferred to wear bras while sleeping but all that was now changing as the new generation preferred to go to sleep without bras. In addition, wearing bras was made an option as it now became a consideration following a specific change in attitude. In this decade, Lovable designed very comfortable wear made with fine layers joined to the top lace fabric. In this design, cups stood up in the open end.
Gossard Wonderbra (1968-the 1990s)
The history of bra that is quite memorable was evidenced when Gossard initiated its Wonderbra publicity in 1968. The new design’s main market line was the idea of increasing breast size. It brought in demand for larger sizes besides increasing cleavage. Those who liked the bras but had bigger bust lines simply bought a replacement fastener to increase the size. To attain the cleavage no other bra could produce, the breast had to be pushed a little bit and this caused some pain to the users. In addition, the design was made with false inserts in which foam rubber could be placed to increase bust, and such was the wonder of Wonderbra. The designers increased their product sizes as a result of the increasing size needs of women. This design also became popular in the 1990s for women looking for increased breast sizes as a result of scars caused by silicone implants. The Wonderbra wonders in the 1990s made it become the bestselling bra label. Gossard’s finally sold the name rights and came up with the current name; Ultrabra.
In the 1980s media influence (Dallas and Dynasty) made sexy lingerie became common as women were gaining body consciousness like never before. This statement is affirmed by (Targosz, p. 27), “I love lingerie. It invokes within me the ultimate feeling of femininity. Whether I’m in a business meeting, at the gym, or a formal party, my lingerie or lack thereof is my private little secret. I’ve even considered doing a signature line.” She says in the chapter, “Whether you own six or sixty bras, the fascination that both men and women have with the brassiere is alive and well.” Women of the 1980s frequented gym facilities to shape their bodies. Satin Teddies; the modern swimming costume, was in this time laced and had a cup. It was worn without bras and was an ideal fit for a toned woman or for that woman with surgically firmed breasts. Camisoles and hip tangas were redesigned as they were more lace encrusted. Camisoles became more of outerwear as it was evidenced in the Mark and Spencer outlets when shoppers looking for camisoles in the outerwear section needed to be redirected to go the underwear section. Camisoles became popular potentially because wearing separates was fashionable at that time.
The 1990s saw the return of cleavage thanks to Madonna’s approval of the last decade’s design. Due to her celebrity status, the lace bra came back in fashion. Several fashion houses were back in the market for the lace bras; for instance, Mark and Spencer, La Senza, Rigby, La Perla, and Triumph among others. The new look of Madonna seemed backdated but this was changed with underwear slips that gave good line under dresses. It was now possible to wear unlined dresses without the need for a static build-up. In the mid-1990s, two styles were pertinent: corselette girdles from Mark and Spencer (the most popular fashion line in all undergarments) and Lycra underwear that lifted bottoms.
Bioform Bras
Bioform bras are considered the greatest revolution of the 2000 millennium in the bra industry. With the capital capability of the recent time, Chamos heavily invested in a new lift bra capable of suiting all size needs. The designer also took into consideration those with big cup sizes. The Bioform bra was later launched after the design was over in the year 2000. This bra can lift and contour and after ten years’ lapse of its usage, it can reshape a sagging bust. It performs two functions at a time as it both centers the breast and uplifts them. It can do this for even a size 42DD on the upper side and a size G on the lower limit. The dynamism of this technology is the bra’s ability to bring large breasts to look firmer and youthful. It takes one time to get used to this bra and it is also possible that at times they do not perfectly suit all bra users. Contrary to the success of this technology, the fabric used was not the best due to the technical needs of the design and this denied the bra that classy look. Much prettier designs were made in 2002 with sexy appeal. The availability of these bras is limited but for the use of internet services for placing orders.
The Ultimo Bra
Women were still using inserts in their bras for cleavage. The need to address the need for cleavages motivated Michelle Mone; a British woman who hails from Glasgow to come up with a design proposal. She developed an Ultimo bra consisting of silicone gel-filled in the bra to provide cleavage and comfort. This Ultimo design has shaped some of the famous people’s breasts like Kylie Minogue and Julia Roberts. The silicone gel embedded in the bra makes it feel real and natural just like the breast. The inserts place the breasts in a different position other than the normal position. This design is made of high-quality fibers; Microfibre polyamide, which gives a smooth touch. The technology works with a patented silicone gel that can mimic breast tissues and this creates comfortable contours besides a super cleavage.
Uses of Bra and Bra Technology
The first reason women give for wearing a bra is that the outfit supports the breasts. This statement shows that there is no medical reason why bras should be used. Women with big-sized breasts may need them to offer support especially when they are exercising or are involved in some sporting activities. Whether or not to put on a bra remains a personal issue but should one opt to do it, it is advisable to find the one that fits. This should be done carefully in that those fitted with underwire; though fitting, should be avoided as they can press into breasts tissues. Prevention of breast sagging is not wholly prevented by wearing bras as the force of gravity tends to make them sag too. Another reason to argue for the perception that the breast can increase sagging especially when it is not fitting is that an unfit bra can make breast tissues shift making it lose its shape. Secondly, women wear bras because the psychological state sees it as immoral to walk around braless. The society we live in dictates that women wear bras as a dress code in the modern setup. It is felt that bras give women a sense of sexuality to their breasts.
Another reason why women wear a bra is that it is a dress code that cannot be avoided especially for those seeking employment. That may either be a fact or not but all the same, there are alternatives even at the workplace. Camisoles can be used instead especially if they are elastic. They can prevent breasts from bouncing when one walks around at the workplace without anybody noticing. Where a company’s policy requires women to put on bras it is still possible to change the policies; though success is not guaranteed. Also, women wear bras to give an impression of big breasts especially when one has small breasts. Most young girls are always conscious about their breast sizes and given that bra technology can enhance the size, big size breasts are achievable. Lastly, wearing bras create comfort when a woman sweats. I sense of discomfort is always felt when one sweats and is without a bra. Sweats do collect under breasts and when breasts slap against the underneath skin, pain is felt.
Effects of Putting on Bras
Some of the reasons for wearing bras above are in a way downplayed because of the effects of wearing bras. It is because wearing bras have side effects that can be avoided by simply avoiding the use of bras as much as possible. Wearing bras create body beauty for women; besides, the technology that makes bras enhance breasts firm and give cleavage is simply appealing to most women and men alike. However, some worries come with it. It is not authentic that push-up bras will enhance cleavage. It is not guaranteed that cleavage will be maintained when one undresses. Some women also feel that it is not real and feel it is not right to put on push-up bras. This is more of a psychological aspect that affects some of the women in society.
Push-up bras can be discomforting or cause pain when the size is not right or the fabric used is itchy. Most women do not know their right bra sizes and this may end up causing breathing difficulty more so if the bra is of smaller size than required. “Building a good wardrobe means dressing properly from the inside out, and the correct bra size is key. Wearing a bra that fits correctly affects posture as well as the health of breast tissue (if the bra is too loose, the bra tissue sags; if it’s too tight, the underwire can poke you in your most sensitive areas)…,”(Maroukian and Woodruff, pp.90-91). It is advisable for those using push-up bras for cleavage not to use bras that are discomforting. In addition, bras have health concerns in the blood circulation system as a tight bra can distort blood circulation. Also, lymph circulation can be affected by the use of bras. Distortion of the lymphatic system interferes with the removal of toxic wastes from the body. Bras can indeed give a shaped figure and all the beauty-related purposes; but, health considerations are personal matters and it is logical to take into account how they solely affect an individual; however, fashionable a garment may see.
Conclusion
From the discussion above, any form of technology must indeed undergo chronological changes to fully realize optimal utility. The modern designs of bras suit human needs for the moment but with future needs of clients. Production must be able to cater to these needs. As a result, it calls for professionalism in the industry to address the market needs. Technology must also work towards reducing the side effects bras may cause to the users in a bid to reduce skepticism among women and society in general.
Works Cited
Berry, Cheree. Hoorah for the Bra: A Perky at the History of the Brassiere. Harry N. Abrams. 2006.
Delis-Hill, Daniel. As seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising. Texas Tech University Press. 2007.
Farrell- Beck, Jane and Gau, Colleen. Uplift: The Bar in America. University of Pennsylvania Press. 2005.
Maroukian, Fraccine and Woodruff, The Handbook of Style: Expert Fashion and Beauty Advice. Quirk Books. 2006.
Targosz, Cynthia, Tour best bust: in minutes a day. Sourcebooks, Inc. 2005.