Promoting Sustainable Consumption in the 21st Century Report (Assessment)

Introduction

Conscious consumption has become a trend in the 21st century. Even 100 years ago, the production of clothes, furniture, and any other objects required much more time and skills. Materials and fabrics were more expensive, so people carefully considered each purchase. Now the technological revolution and cheap plastic inventions have filled stores with more affordable goods, dishes, and clothing. Young people buy a lot more than older generations, but they use nearly half of these things. The rest ends up in closets or, even worse, go to the trash. However, fortunately, more people are beginning to think about respect for the environment and conscious consumption. It only seems complicated and inconvenient, but there are several principles that each person can apply in life.

In the fashion industry, there is a conflict between shoppers’ wallets and their conscience. Leading clothing manufacturers are looking for a compromise between the speed of product creation and profitability on the one hand and consumer demand for sustainable products and growing environmental threats on the other. Citizens have become accustomed to the mass market and are now quickly and cheaply updating their wardrobes. But at the same time, consumers have a growing desire to harm the planet as little as possible with such behavior because the textile industry can cause significant damage to the environment. Now, clothing manufacturers are trying to bring fashion in line with the principles of a sustainable economy. This article is about sustainable fashion and ways to save nature while purchasing clothes.

What is sustainable fashion?

It is a movement to make clothing more sustainable by making adjustments in the design, production, distribution, and recycling stages. The task is to get away from the principles of “fast fashion”: high-speed production of clothes, which is not always cheap (Muhtu, 2018). Speed ​​is needed due to ever-changing tastes and trends, which leads to a one-off attitude towards such things on the part of consumers. People always want to wear something new; they strive to look like celebrities. Unfortunately, this leads to overproduction, which is detrimental to the climate.

There are also critical issues of respect for animals and the social responsibility of the industry. Manufacturers test many products on animals, which is inhumane and can lead to negative regulation of species. Social responsibility is about combating child labor and poor working conditions in developing countries. Undoubtedly, setting up production in a small Asian country and paying people a dollar a day is easy. It is faster and cheaper than setting up a factory in Western Europe or America. However, this is contrary to the principles of fairness and human dignity, so consumers should avoid companies that manufacture goods in this way.

How fashion harms the environment

There are significant environmental issues related to the fast-fashion industry. With global clothing production doubling over the past 15 years, the CO2 emissions from the textile industry have exceeded those of the shipping and international travel industries combined (Vecchi, 2016). Cotton and polyester make up 85% of the raw materials in clothing, and both are far from sustainable. Polyester is made from crude oil, which can be extracted with toxic leaks and water pollution. Polyester cannot be biodegradable. In addition, the fabric is dyed with chemical dyes that contaminate groundwater sources. Cotton, as a crop, requires a lot of water and insecticides. Growing cotton for one T-shirt requires 2.7 thousand liters of water: this is how much a person needs for three years of life (Seil, 2016). Indeed, some companies use organic cotton grown without pesticides, but this is only 1% of the world’s harvest, and such cotton requires no less water.

The fashion industry’s incomprehensible scale and the number of fabrics produced for clothing each year are what make the fashion industry so devastating. Textile factories are large energy consumers, and therefore their greenhouse gas emissions are significant. Approximately 80% of the energy used in the fashion industry is used in textile production (Thomas, 2019). Electricity is needed to operate equipment such as sewing machines and air pumps in textile mills. An enormous amount of heat is required to wash, dry, and dye fabrics.

Many textile mills also dump raw chemicals into rivers, and they are responsible for some of the world’s most polluted rivers. The dumping of pesticides used primarily for dyeing fabrics has made large parts of major rivers uninhabitable. For many, rivers are the primary source of drinking water and irrigation, a place for washing, and a direct food source. High rates of cancer and other diseases have been found in communities living near heavily polluted rivers, especially textile mills.

What role do consumers play in this process?

People play a vital role in the development of sustainable fashion. They want to buy more and store clothes for less time. They do not hesitate to go to stores and buy what is cheap and trendy today. This makes them feel satisfied and significant to society. After a few days, this process is repeated, and this can last indefinitely. Because of this constant renewal of wardrobe, manufacturers are creating new useless clothes all the time, harming the environment. In Europe, the average number of times a wardrobe item is worn has dropped from 200 times in 2000 to 160 times in 2015 (Cyrklaff, 2017). When washed, polyester and nylon items release tiny fibers that pollute sewage and ultimately the oceans.

While the demand for cheap clothing prompted the fashion industry to develop in this way, the situation is now changing. According to surveys, in the UK, about 50% of consumers care about how their clothes were made. Among young people under 24, this number exceeds 60% (Heuer & Becker-Leifhold, 2018). Until recently, buyers’ priority was healthy food: it was important for people how products affect them and their bodies. Now the demand for environmentally friendly cosmetics and household chemicals has grown as well. So far, manufacturers are working on greening all production and developing recyclable packaging. However, for consumers, the main factor is the natural composition of cosmetics and household chemicals. Sometimes, the over-packaging of goods can be attributed to transportation and merchandising difficulties. Without a box or special film, the product may break or lose its presentation. Yet, companies are now slowly but surely heading towards packaging optimization. It is also worth remembering that sometimes the package may not be ideal, but this increases the product life. This is crucial for deliveries to remote cities and regions.

Social networks play a crucial role in communication between the company and the consumer: they can be used to suggest changes or complain about a product of a brand. Inside the company, suggestions and complaints are considered, after which the packaging or information about the product in the public domain is changed. The research and marketing departments work to ensure that the products themselves are more environmentally friendly, and customers can see these changes. This approach not only creates a positive agenda but also increases people’s loyalty to the brand.

What companies are doing to be greener

A few years ago, 94 companies representing 12.5% ​​of the fashion market signed the Global Fashion Agenda 2020. Under it, each company has a set of individual tasks, while the overall goals are to use water more efficiently, develop sustainable fibers, and create new processing systems. Some brands also have their initiatives. For instance, Adidas has promised to use exclusively recycled plastic by 2024 (Brooks, 2019). H&M plans to switch entirely to recycled and other environmentally friendly materials by 2030. PVH, the owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, intends to use raw materials only from environmentally friendly sources. Prada has pledged to replace all of its current nylon with more environmentally friendly materials, such as synthetics made from recycled plastics found in the oceans (Jenss & Hofmann, 2019). In addition, Prada recently followed the example of Burberry and Gucci by banning natural fur on the runways.

There are already recognized eco-fashion leaders on the market: People Tree, Patagonia, Ciel, Lindex, and C&A brands. Instead of synthetics, they use recycled materials, avoid artificial colors, and choose organic cotton (Jastram & Schneider, 2018). Manufacturing is based on fair trade principles, that is, in compliance with international labor and environmental standards. By buying clothes from these brands, customers can be calm both for the environment and for decent wages for their production employees. In addition, eco-friendly companies usually donate to environmental protection organizations.

Famous brands are also increasingly taking the green path. The pioneer was Stella McCartney, who has adhered to eco-principles since the founding of her fashion house. The designer is openly against fur and leather. She uses recyclable plastic and organic cotton for the production of clothing, shoes, and accessories. This cotton is grown without fertilizers, pesticides, and, accordingly, harm to the environment. Stella McCartney was able to introduce multiple influencers to sustainable fashion. Emma Watson, Margot Robbie, Meryl Streep, Olga Kurylenko, and other celebrities are happy to demonstrate outfits made from organic cotton and recycled materials during worldwide events.

In the mass market, there are also brands with an eco-friendly bias. The Swedish company H&M launched the Conscious collection made entirely from organic cotton and silk. Natalia Vodianova, Vanessa Paradis, Natasha Poly, and Olivia Wilde were the ambassadors of these collections (Gwilt, Payne, & Ruthschilling, 2019). Mango has an eco-line Committed to wool and viscose, while at Zara, consumers can find essential wardrobe items in the eco-friendly line Join Life.

Are there any improvements now

The introduction of new practices does not yet compensate for the industry’s rapid growth, which could reach 100 million tons of shoes and clothes purchased annually by 2030. Without profound and systemic changes, fashion is still far from meeting the sustainable development goals set by the UN, and the fast fashion industry is not slowing down as well. Every second in the world, a volume of textiles equal to one dump truck is sent to a landfill or burned (Simpson, 2019). Only 1% of materials produced for tailoring are recycled. Even some sustainability companies are burning millions of dollars worth of unwanted clothing.

What the authorities of different countries are doing

France is now leading the transformation of the fashion industry towards greater environmental responsibility. François-Henri Pinault, CEO of Kering Holding, which includes the brands Balenciaga, Brioni, Gucci, and Yves Saint Laurent, coordinates the industry’s efforts to reduce its environmental impact. In addition, manufacturers in the EU will have to adjust to the European Parliament’s new rules. The goals are to send at least 55% of municipal waste for recycling by 2025 and send no more than 10% of waste to landfills by 2035 (Henninger et al., 2017). However, in June 2019, the British authorities rejected several proposals aimed at combating “one-off fashion,” such as a complete ban on burning clothes. In the United States, customs regulations inadvertently force companies to burn unclaimed imported clothing: a refund of duties paid is required for its destruction. Finally, there are not enough regulations worldwide to make the use of dyes a more transparent process. Without this, it is problematic to assess the real impact of the textile industry on nature.

Ways to get dressed more environmentally friendly

If consumers are not ready to buy clothes from only sustainable brands just yet, they can help the environment by cutting down on clothing purchases. Minimalism in the wardrobe is gaining more popularity. It means the presence in the closet of a minimum of perfectly combined items. Before people buy another T-shirt with a funny print, they need to remember that it takes about 2,700 liters of water and a significant amount of dye to create it. It is also worth remembering to take proper care of things, which will prolong their life. It is necessary to read the information on the labels: some fabrics are quite demanding.

Unwanted items should not be thrown away. Clothes that have lost their presentable appearance can be taken for recycling. For example, recycling a shirt will save 2000 liters of water. H&M and Uniqlo have collection points for old things, and in return, these stores give discount coupons for new collections. Items in good condition can be donated to charity or thrift stores. Swap parties are becoming more popular: their participant’s exchange clothes. They can have a great time with friends and at the same time update wardrobes without harming the environment.

By purchasing vintage items, consumers extend their life. Gone are the days when one had to go to flea markets in search of unique things. Today, people can buy clothes, shoes, and accessories with history without leaving their homes. Online stores specializing in the resale of items offer a vast selection: from little-known companies to world-famous brands. Some things were worn by the former owners only a couple of times, so it is almost impossible to distinguish them from new ones. The savings will be a bonus to environmental protection.

Celebrities are increasingly abandoning natural fur and leather. Pamela Anderson is filmed naked to convey to people: that it is better to be naked than to kill animals for clothes. Singer Pink turned to Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain with a request to replace the bear fur on the caps of the guardsmen with faux fur (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Christina Aguilera also does not use natural fur and leather. Today, technologies have stepped so far that eco-leather is indistinguishable from natural, and artificial fur warms no worse than real.

It is time to give up plastic bags imposed in every store and their dominance in closets and on shelves at home. People should also remember that an average family brings up to 1000 bags during the year, the overwhelming majority of which later quickly end up in a landfill, hover in the air, or settle on tree branches. Most plastic bags deteriorate in nature over hundreds or even thousands of years, poisoning water, and soil and destroying wildlife. Burning is also not an option: during this process, bags release toxic substances into the atmosphere. Simple shoppers that can be reused many times and eco-friendly designer accessories that replace factory stamping are good alternatives.

Conclusion

Maintaining sustainability is especially important for the modern world, as the planet’s ecological state is systematically deteriorating. Clothing production is one of the most critical factors influencing this process. The concept of conscious fashion places responsibility not only on the clothing manufacturer but also on the customers. After all, global brands focus on their consumers. Before replenishing a wardrobe with another skirt bought in a sale, one must consider whether it is essential. Conscious fashion is not about quantity but quality. The fate of worn-out items should also be a subject of reflection for the buyer, who follows the idea of ​​conscious fashion. The life of things should not end the moment we stop wearing them. Therefore, consumers must always remember this problem and approach consumption wisely. In addition, they must inform as many people around as possible about this. This will slow down destructive processes and maintain the ecological balance of the planet.

References

Muhtu, S. S. (2018). Fast fashion, fashion brands and sustainable consumption. Springer.

Vecchi, A. (2016). Handbook of research on global fashion management and merchandising. IGI Global.

Seil, L. (2016). Fashion specific challenges occurring within the supply chain and how these can be approached using fast fashion: Based on the example of the Spanish clothing retailer Zara. GRIN Verlag.

Thomas, D. (2019). Fashionopolis: The price of fast fashion and the future of clothes. Head of Zeus Ltd.

Cyrklaff, D. (2017). Sustainability as a trend in fashion industry. An empirical study about changing consumer behaviour. GRIN Verlag.

Heuer, M., & Becker-Leifhold, C. (2018). Eco-friendly and fair: Fast fashion and consumer behaviour. Routledge.

Brooks, A. (2019). Clothing poverty: The hidden world of fast fashion and second-hand clothes. Bloomsbury Academic.

Jenss, H., & Hofmann, V. (2019). Fashion and materiality: Cultural practices in global contexts. Bloomsbury Publishing.

Jastram, S. M., & Schneider, A. (2018). Sustainable fashion: Governance and new management approaches. Springer.

Gwilt, A., Payne, A., & Ruthschilling, E. A. (2019). Global perspectives on sustainable fashion. Bloomsbury Publishing.

Simpson, L. H. (2019). Exploration of the perpetuating fast fashion consumption cycle: Young women’s experiences in pursuit of an ideal self-image. Graduate Theses and Dissertations. 17100. Web.

Henninger, C. E., Alevizou, P. J., Goworek, H., & Ryding, D. (2017). Sustainability in fashion: A cradle to upcycle approach. Springer.

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1, 189-200.