Introduction
Modern technologies make it possible to make fashion more accessible, efficient and eco-friendly by using predictive technologies, creating new fabrics and textures and mechanising production. However, these technologies are still in their infancy; hence, it is difficult to assess their prospects without a detailed analysis. For this reason, this paper will look at such trends as the use of AI, sustainable fabrics and China’s e-commerce in fashion to predict their future development and impact on the fashion industry.
Artificial Intelligence in the Fashion Industry
Artificial intelligence technologies began to be used more frequently in the fashion industry. For example, a literature review by Giri et al. (2019) shows that most of the research on artificial intelligence in fashion has been published in the last decade. However, there have also been articles on simpler AI technologies since 1989. However, one can note significant progress in the use of AI by examining its current applications.
Firstly, one of the most common methods of using AI is predicting customer demands and their volumes, as well as managing supply chains. For example, back in 2017, IBM started working with Tommy Hilfiger to identify future trends using AI (Cassidy, 2019). Such predictions allow manufacturers to manage supply chains by limiting or increasing the supply of raw materials and producing clothing. In addition, analysis of social media such as Instagram is also used for this purpose because fashion blogs and discussions provide the most direct insight into customer requests (Cassidy, 2019). Computer technology and AI are also being used to provide customers with a more enjoyable shopping experience.
The most common technology is conversational commerce, which allows shoppers to receive personalised recommendations, is chatbots or messaging (McDowell, 2019). This tool improves sales efficiency as it allows companies to reduce the number of workers without depriving customers of recommendations. For instance, Burberry and Tommy Hilfiger use chatbots that run 24/7 and always ready to help customers (Gandhi, 2019, para.6). Consequently, AI has great significance in the retail and marketing of the fashion industry.
Furthermore, AI is used directly in production and design development. Intelistyle conducted a study in which the respondents were asked to choose an outfit among two options, one of which was created by AI and the other by an influencer. 70% of people chose the look created by AI and not by a real person (Roberts-Islam, 2019, para.3). This result is explained by the fact that AI deeply analysed billions of popular images from the Internet not only by colour and style but also in textures and fabrics. Consequently, designers can use such concepts chosen by AI and creatively refine them to make unique outfits.
AI is also used in production for designing patterns, sewing and creating accessories, which allows companies more efficient use of labour and natural resources and time. For example, Mathilde Rougier made new textiles composed of interlocking offcut fabrics by using convolutional neural networks (CNNs) (Roberts-Islam, 2020, para. 13). This technique helps reuse and create new fabrics from recycled clothing and reduces the problem of fashion industry waste.
Another way of using AI is to create “smart clothing” that adapt to the external environment and the human body. For example, the North Face created a new membrane that three times more breathable than other fabrics, waterproof, and made from 100% recycled nylon and polyester (Sutherland and Fish, 2019, para. 23-25). Thus, AI has many uses in the design and creation of products in the fashion industry.
The coronavirus pandemic has forced brands and designers to be more inventive to show new collections without public gathering. The Fashion Innovation Agency (FIA) developed a course for students to teach them programming, and as a result, they presented a virtual fashion show (Roberts-Islam, 2020, para. 4). Programming and machine learning allowed students to recreate the movements of models and fabrics on their bodies in unusual environments, such as the ocean, and create fashion looks for them. This show was also available for display in virtual reality to immerse viewers in the atmosphere of the fashion show (Roberts-Islam, 2020, para. 8). In this way, the students demonstrated another potential method of using AI in fashion.
The evolution of AI over the next 10 years will be directed towards data analytics for greater participation in the described trends. Predicting sales through AI software is a complicated and often inaccurate process that requires many stages of filtering and data validation (Beckwith, 2019).
Additionally, chatbots cannot also completely replace people for advising buyers. For example, some brands, such as Everlane, have refused to use chatbots because customers found them inconvenient and inaccurate (Boos, 2018, para. 2). Thus, for a more effective application of AI in the fashion industry, it is necessary to solve the same problems that currently exist in other industries. In particular, the proliferation of machine learning technology can enable brands to offer more diverse services. For example, customers will be able to use special programs that will replace stylists or create individual clothes that can then be ordered from brands.
With the development of virtual reality, as well as the ubiquity of the digital space, AI can also be used to purchase exclusively digital clothing in 10 years. The fashion industry in a decade may adopt technology to create brands that do not focus on physical fashion collections. Such a change can finally separate the real and digital space, in which different trends will exist. Thus, the evolution of AI in the fashion industry will move in step with other sectors towards digital products and services.
Unique Sustainable Fabrics and Clothes
Advances in technology, access to data and the need for sustainable production drive the development of more sustainable production methods and new fabrics. As Khandual and Pradhan (2019, p. 37) underline, the gradual shift from fast fashion to sustainable and socially responsible consumption is clearly visible globally. This trend has moved further than artificial intelligence, although there are still many barriers to the complete transition of fashion to sustainable fabrics and accessories. Nevertheless, a review of existing options for creating sustainable fabrics and garments shows significant prospects for developing the trend.
The sustainability of fabrics is determined by several criteria: their durability, recyclability, reusability and the number of resources and waste of their production. Many brands use sustainable methods to manufacture and process such fabrics as wool, linen, cotton, silk, bamboo, hemp, ramie or abaca without using chemicals. For instance, The Better Cotton Initiative supports farmers worldwide to reduce the use of pesticides and toxic fertilisers for growing cotton (Jones, n.d., para. 7).
The absence of chemicals in the process of growing and processing fabrics makes them completely biodegradable. Technology also helps design sustainable accessories and garments; for example, Pasricha and Greeninger (2018) created a necklace, earrings and buttons by using a 3D printer and polylactic acid filament. These accessories are biodegradable and leave no waste in production.
Another way to increase the sustainability of fabrics is to reduce the number of resources and waste of manufacturing fabrics and clothing. For example, Gabriela Hearst presented the 2021 collection that was created from recycled or preexisting patterns and fabric by 60% (Farra, 2020, para. 7). Another recycling method was presented by the designer who created the fabric from the weaving offcut fabrics using AI (Roberts-Islam, 2020, para. 13). Consequently, the development of re-usable material reduces the cost of their production, which is a positive economic and environmental trend.
Furthermore, designers and companies create new vegan zero-waste materials to reduce the number of resources and waste. One option is leather made from the leaves of pineapples as it requires less water, does not require chemicals and the waste from its production can be used as fertiliser (Jones, n.d., para. 3). This material was used by Danielle Lara brand to create a completely sustainable collection of clothing in collaboration with other designers (Moorhouse and Moorhouse, 2019). Another example is Lyocell fabric, the wastewater from the production of which is recycled (Jones, n.d., para. 8). Thus, fabric production becomes a more sustainable process with a less negative impact on the environment.
Some brands apply different technologies to increase the durability of fabrics. For example, scientists at Pennsylvania State University have found that a protein in squid ring teeth can be used to strengthen fabrics while leaving them biodegradable (Jones, n.d., para. 4). Biotechnology has also opened up many possibilities. For instance, biotechnology allows the creation of self-protective materials that repel dirt, natural-coloured cotton, and artificial leather (Palmer, 2020). Such technologies diminish the need for customers to buy clothes due to wear and tear.
However, the production of sustainable fabrics presents many challenges and obstacles from both the fashion industry and consumers. First, the production of sustainable fabrics is more expensive and slower. Natural growing and processing of raw materials are slower than using pesticides and chemicals. For example, silk is one of the most expensive fabrics due to the complexity of its production. At the same time, it is not profitable for the industry to increase the durability of clothing while keeping prices low; therefore, higher quality clothing made from natural fabrics has a higher price.
However, not all customers are able and willing to buy such clothes. According to a study, 41 per cent of young people between the ages of 18 and 25 think they should wear new clothes every time they go out (Nguyen, 2020). This position reflects the trend of “fast fashion”, which changes the concept of fashionable clothing every year. Consequently, brands and companies drive sales and promote “fast fashion” depending on profit.
The evolution of the sustainability trend in the industry may peak in the next 10 years, as society is increasingly concerned with the environment. Development in this area is an important aspect for companies that can build their reputation as socially responsible manufacturer. Thus, the next decade will see an increase in the amount of recycled clothing. The use of biodegradable and sustainable raw materials is likely to increase the cost of production, which will also lead to a longer lifecycle of the garment, as well as a decrease in its production. Such changes could lead to a decrease in the popularity of the mass market in favour of more premium brands, as well as the proliferation of digital fashion products. Thus, the trend for sustainability can lead to the spread of responsible consumption in society, in particular, the brands themselves will promote this concept.
China’s E-Commerce and Social Market
The Chinese market and e-commerce are of great importance to global fashion for two reasons. Firstly, the size of the Chinese population and their growing level of economic wealth allows international brands to find a profitable sales market. For example, according to a report by World Trade Organization (2019, p. 8), China became the world’s leading merchandise trader, and clothing was the most dynamic product. At the same time, most Chinese shoppers target unique apparel and prefer global luxury brands (Danziger, 2020). Secondly, China’s developed industry and e-marketing make it a major player in the fashion industry, although its influence in the formation of fashion trends is not yet global.
Studies show that Chinese entrepreneurs’ e-commerce and social marketplace allow them to occupy an increasingly broader niche in the fashion industry in China and abroad. One of the most effective e-commerce methods is through a social market or social media. For example, social media uses KOL (Key Opinion Leaders), which means they attract online celebrities for live-steaming to encourage viewers to learn and buy a brand product (Zou and Peng, 2019). This approach is highly effective as online celebrities are usually micro-influencers and can build closer and more intimate relationships with shoppers (Jin and Ryu, 2019, p. 121). In other words, people trust a celebrity’s recommendation more if they feel emotionally close to them.
Another popular social network is PinDuoDuo, which allows customers to get discounts on group purchases. In this way, people are grouped by interests, which reinforce their social interactions and, at the same, time enhance purchasing intent. The theory of social identity explains the popularity of this and other social networks in e-commerce. A sense of community positively influences attitudes towards brands; therefore, recommendations on an influencer’s page push people to favour them (Jin and Ryu, 2019). Simultaneously, China’s isolation from global social networks such as Instagram and Facebook allows local brands and companies to influence the consumer behaviour of the population of one of the largest countries in the world.
Moreover, Chinese WeChat has advantages over European and American social networks in terms of functionality; for example, it has mini-games, which, among other things, helps to promote luxury brands. According to WeChat data, transaction through WeChat mini-games for the apparel industry tripled in 2020 compared to 2019 (Biondi, 2021, para. 5). Thus, e-commerce in the Chinese market plays an essential role in promoting fashion trends and brands.
Furthermore, e-commerce also helps China to expand its presence all over the world. The most famous example is Alibaba, which is one of the largest retailers in the world. Although the company primarily operates in China, low prices also attract buyers from other countries. Consequently, the company can sell emerging brands of Chinese clothing and accessories overseas. At the same time, more Chinese fashion designers want to go global, study in European universities, and get recognition at world competitions (Hu, 2021). Combining the improvement in style and importance of Chinese designers, coupled with a high level of e-commerce, demonstrates China’s high potential in the global market. However, even with a high level of e-commerce and social market, China cannot yet compete with global European and American brands.
This aspect is primarily related to the regulation and insufficient cultural influence of China globally. For example, Instagram is one of the most influential sources of fashion trends, especially during pandemic (Criddle, 2021). However, this social network is blocked in China, making it difficult to use it. Other popular global social networks are also blocked in China, but Chinese WeChat, Sina Weibo and Tencent QQ are little known in the Western World. Consequently, one of the most influential e-commerce methods in China is not effective in other countries.
In the next 10 years, China can significantly influence the global trends in the fashion industry, in particular e-commerce. For this purpose, the Western world and China need to find a common platform to promote the main fashion trends. According to Kang (2019), Online shoppers’ buying intentions are more influenced by the value of online showrooms than by brand prestige. Moreover, the coronavirus pandemic has forced people to shop online more often and has proven to be convenient and safe. Consequently, e-commerce will become an integral part of the future fashion industry because customers gain trust in e-commerce.
For this reason, Western brands that do not want to lose the profit of one of the largest fashion markets in the world will be forced to look for a way to use e-commerce in China. Therefore, it is likely that the desire of Western and Chinese companies to expand their global presence will push them to collaborate and create a global social network through which they will attract customers.
Consequently, China will also be able to influence global fashion trends and the fashion industry due to its significant e-commerce and social market experience and production volumes. Thus, the trend of the participation and influence of China’s e-commerce in the fashion industry is promising in the next decade. However, its development largely depends on the political and economic decisions of states, as well as social tendencies.
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