Introduction
In today’s world, fashion is perceived to be a crucial part of life. Clothes are no longer seen as just material that covers the body, but they are also used to communicate. They communicate class, level of education, amount of wealth, job and even in some instances ethnicity. Due to the impact fashion has on the day to day life, fashion houses have had to come up with creative ways of advertising their products.
The biggest challenge of this mission is the diversification of the target audience. Many will agree that fashion also has a lot to do with personality. However, advertising in terms of personality is not easy, especially in large scale. This essay looks at advertising in fashion and some of the ways used to make advertising in fashion successful.
History
As mentioned, fashion has been present since time immemorial. However, academic evidence shows that advertising in fashion started in the early 1600s. The first form of fashion advertising was the word of mouth. O’Neil argues that during the early 1600s many people were touring the world exploring new possibilities and making trade allies (621). Due to this interaction, communities borrowed cultural senses from one another. Communities that traded in the thread, cotton and wool were often sorted out to make trade allies.
Additionally, loyalty and educated scholars also helped with the advertising of fashion through word of mouth. For example, Phillips and Edward explain that the Japanese are among the few communities that did not embrace fashion (371). In fact, people who would interact with the Chinese throughout the centuries have been quoted to note that their fashion sense has never really changed.
In the early years, barter trade also had a significant impact on advertising in fashion. As Givhan observes, many of these communities that traded with cloth and thread were doing so simply to get something else that they need (58).
However, this constant supply of cloth and thread made it easier for people to come up with specific clothing designs. Additionally, the communities that had these commodities in abundance were also highly fashionable. It is such communities that made fashion revolve around the type of fabric used. For example, silk was very fashionable at a point and so forth.
It suffices to mention that scholars have created a link between advertising in fashion and the economy. This means that communities traded in the material used for creating cloth to advance their economies. Such communities, therefore, took the time to advertise the importance of their commodities to get as many buyers as possible. Imagine a merchandiser who says that the silk cloth he has can make women beautiful, and it goes very well with decorations associated with one’s community.
The people in that community are more likely to purchase the silk cloth and take it to their wives and daughters. To make matters much more interesting, the communities take their newly bought silk cloth to one dress maker who makes the same general design for all dresses. These dresses then become that community’s national fashion.
Advertising in fashion has also been used in national cohesion. As mentioned, dress designs were used to determine a culture or community. Thus, people were identified using their accessories and clothing, especially in the 1600s.
It was, therefore, the government’s strategy to encourage people to wear, or at least have, clothing that showed loyalty to the country. Such leaders would visit their allies and even enemies, and offer them clothing material and ready-made clothing. This can be considered advertising in fashion as it greatly influenced the parties involved.
In the same breath, history also tells that advertising in fashion was done through interaction. Intermarriages were very common in the early centuries, and people would borrow from each other’s culture. For example, the Italians were intermarried with the French, and France has been at the center of the fashion industry since time immemorial. Even then, the Italians borrowed some fashion sense from their French spouses. It is also evident that Italian fashion prompted some of the designs created by the French.
O’Neil adds that in Europe. Fashion and advertising in fashion began as early was the 14th century (624). Through the century, the fashion industry saw rapid change due to the interaction with other cultures. The scholar explains that many Europeans had acted as missionaries in Africa and other parts of the world. They were, therefore, influenced by these cultures.
For example, in Africa, many communities used the animal skin to form clothing, and even furniture. They also used shells as accessories. The missionaries did not propose the use of animal hid in the European fashion world, but they introduced the idea of dyeing cloth in the form of prints and things that can be found in nature. Thus, as early as the 15th century, the English were using flowers and plants to dye their clothes.
It is also crucial to mention that fashion did entail not only dressing and accessories but also hair. In fact, as Morimoto and Chang observe, each decade or so throughout history had its type of hairstyle that was deemed fashionable (175). This relationship in hair style, fashion, and decade has made it easy for interested historians to identify precise years of events.
O’Neil explains that fashion has always been associated with the rich in society (619). In the early centuries, the rich would be the first to wear the most fashionable clothes. In fact, the poor were not allowed to own such beautiful clothing, but many would aim to copy the style. This led to the rich changing their fashion sense constantly to appear different from the peasants.
Today, the same is true. Celebrities and other rich people in the society only wear fashion gurus, and the most beautiful and trendiest fashions. The middle and lower classes are known to mimic the fashion sense of these rich people by either copying the design or wearing an outfit similar to that of a renowned fashion designer.
Advertising in fashion and target audience
In discussing advertising in fashion, it is crucial also to discuss target audience. Fashion today, unlike before, is not only about adults, but also about children. In addition to this, the society has become so diverse that there are different kinds of people with different fashion needs. In the past, fashion was mainly reserved for men and women. This was then narrowed down to married men and women, and those who were not married. Nowadays, fashion designers have to make designs for men, women and children.
These categories are further narrowed down according to culture, the environment, social status, general personality and so forth. Schneier (E4) explains that the categories are very diverse, and this diversity has helped shaped the fashion industry. Thus, when it comes to advertising, the product has to consider the target audience.
Phillips and Edward argue that some of the biggest fashion brands in the world came up with the concept of mother-child fashion (376). This concept revolves around the idea that mothers and their small children look good wearing almost similar outfits as their mothers.
To advertise this particular concept, the fashion houses used celebrity moms. The houses give free designer clothing to these celebrities and in turn, they use their power and influence to make the target audience buy similar designs. Television and internet advertisements are also placed with a celebrity mom as the design’s brand ambassador to entice people into buying the outfits.
Advertising to young adults also takes a similar approach as that of mom and child. For example, the foot ware fashion house Adidas used David Beckham, and other renowned football and basketball players to advertise their products. For teenagers and young adults, the fashion house uses people who are considered role models for that particular generation.
Young and upcoming musicians have also been used to advertise fashion among young adults. As Schneier observes, it is very common to find a young musician wearing designer clothes in his or her music video (E4). In the same breath, other musicians add the name or brand they want to advertise in their lyrics, and this too is advertising in fashion.
Also, as O’Neil explains, advertising in fashion has been taken to the movies, modern movies have incorporated the idea of fashionable and trendy characters that use the latest designer dresses and suits carry the latest designer bags and wear the most fashionable designer shoes money can buy (623). When such movies become a big hit the world over, they advertise the costumes and the makers of the costumes that the characters wore.
O’Neil also adds that movies and music videos have taken advertising in fashion to another level by introducing other forms of accessories (625). For example, it is through these two industries that automobiles were seen as a fashion accessory.
Indeed, cars have in the past been linked to social status and fashion in a sense. However, this link is much more pronounced today than ever. Films like James Bond, Fast and Furious, and Death Race have all linked fashion and automobile. It suffices to point out that the target audience of such is working and upcoming adults and the richest in the society.
In some countries like the US direct advertising to children is allowed. This also includes direct advertising of fashion to children. Givhan explains that under the law, anyone below the age of 16 years is considered a child (58). Shows have been created that target to entertain children. It is through these shows that they learn about fashion and world brands.
It can also be argued that advertising in fashion begins a very early stage through the use of toys. Looking at toys designed for girls, they are usually dolls that have some sense of fashion. The child is also able to dress the doll using miniature clothes. For the little boys, toys like cars are advertised to them using their role models.
In regards to the more mature and older generations, advertising in fashion does not rely on ego and pride like in the younger generations. For this target group, ideology, respect and comfort have been used to advertise their fashion sense. Brands have created comfortable fashion designs for the older generations and used older people to advertise them.
These people are not necessarily celebrities, but older media personalities who were well known by the generation in question during their high days are used to convince buyers. Phillips and Edward also add that younger generations have been tasked by the fashion designers to buy fashionable items for their parents (384). In such instances, the advertisements use the same strategy as advertisements for younger generations.
Modern Trends
Over the years, advertising in fashion has become more aggressive and creative. This has led to the creation of trends of advertising modern styles of fashion. The trends in fashion have mainly fallen into three broad categories. These are television and competitive shows, fashion runways, and blogs and the Internet.
Television and competitive shows
TV and competition shows have helped aspiring fashion designers and the world to keep up with the modern fashion dos and don’ts. Two of the competitive shows that can be mentioned for elaboration are Top Model and Project Runway. The first program enhances advertising in fashion simply because it is a competitive show that aims at determining the best model.
These models ear the latest fashion designs, rock the ‘coolest’ hair styles and have the best accessories. In the same breath, the second show highlights the talent of upcoming fashion designers. They get to support the kind of designs they make for the show and the public learns more about fashion.
It suffices to mention that television alone also enhances advertising in fashion. The media is one of the most influential entities the world can have. It influences the public so much that fashion designers look up to media personalities to get their products accepted by the target market.
Renowned brands dress news anchors, actors and all other media personalities. In fact, looking at a show like The Oscars, one will note that the celebrities and media personalities interviewed have to mention the designer house that made the dress or suit they are in at that particular moment. Just mentioning the name of the designer is advertising in fashion.
O’Neil argues that TV and the media, in general, have enhanced fashion at a much larger sale than can be fathomed (619). Reality shows like Keeping Up with the Kardashians influence many young adults. Such adults look up to these shows for fashion sense and advice. Thus, fashion designers specifically target such shows and get credit for such young people to know the stores they can buy similar clothes from.
Fashion runways
Fashion runways have also been used to advertise modern fashion. Currently, fashion runways have made it easier, and possible, for people in the middle class to also acquire fashionable clothes and designs. Givhan explains that there are high-end fashion runways, and there are widely affordable runways (59). The high ends are reserved for celebrities and the rich in the society.
However, young and upcoming designers also have created runways to not only showcase their designs, but also interact with the audience and get more ideas. In the same breath, schools that teach fashion design have also created such runway events to promote their students. Phillips and Edward add that exhibitions have also been used in enhancing advertising in fashion (371). Exhibitions have, however, been known to benefit greatly the rich people in the society.
For many, runways are used to introduce new trends in the market. Whereas this is significantly true, there are runway events that have highlighted creative works that have passed through time. Such events showcase fashion in different centuries. This might not appear to be advertising a first, but a deeper analysis will prove that it is. Many of the people that attend such events borrow ideas from the clothes and designs that are paraded.
Blogs and the Internet
It can be argued that life revolves round the Internet these days. Everything one can think of is on the Internet. This includes fashion and advertising in fashion. There are three ways in which the Internet has helped with advertising in fashion. These are blogs, web pages, and the social media. Fashion blogs are on the rise in the last few years. Many of these blogs give people advice on what to wear, how to wear it and when to wear it.
They have changed the perception people have of fashion, of it being associated with the wealthy, and also introduced concepts that can help people who do not have much money to spend on designer clothes. These blogs have influenced young adults by telling them that fashion is not only about designer clothing, but also about the normal things people wear.
For example, a blog can write about a certain brand in fashion, for instance, Dolce and Gabbana. The blog will go further ad advise people on how to wear similar kinds of clothing, what accessories can be used while wearing the dress or suit and also the perfect hairdo to go along with the outfit and accessories.
Social media has also been influential in advertising in fashion. In fact, as Morimoto and Chang explain, it has made it easier for middle and lower class populations to interact with fashion gurus (177). Social media includes platforms like Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Fashion labels such as Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Givenchy, and so forth have created pages where people can not only follow their latest designs, but also get to talk with the gurus. Additionally, such platforms also allow fashion designers to promote their products through coupons that make them much more affordable.
Different kinds of advertisement strategies in fashion
O’Neil identifies three main strategies that have been used over the years for advertising in fashion (632). The three strategies are placement, the use of celebrities and role models, and free buys and coupons. This section will analyse all three factors.
Placement
Placement is arguably one of the most common advertising strategies since the introduction of television. It can be simply defined as he placing of products for marketing and advertising purposes at strategic positions in shows and events that will be highlighted on national television. Regarding fashion, this falls mainly under the products that characters in film and television personalities wear. Phillips and Edward reveal that indeed some of these brands solely pay for the production of the film (377).
For example, if the characters are to be dressed by Dolce and Gabbana, this design house will pay some amount to the film producers. The film might also include a scene in a perfume shop, and perfume designers will pay big sums of money to have the shop appear to be owned by them. The shoes, accessories, hotels, makeup, food and even drinks that these people take in the show are all types of placements. Fashion placement is the easiest to see because clothes are associated with personality (Wheaton 29).
Also, people have to wear clothes. Fashion placement advertises to viewers indirectly; thus, the viewers do not know that they are being advertised to. They then look up for stylists of the characters and personalities they like and the clothes they wore in an attempt to copy their style.
Use of celebrities
As mentioned, the use of celebrities and media personality is rampant in fashion. Looking at magazines that are out on the market today, one will note that celebrities were rocking different designs, and the names of their designers also highlighted on the page. It is through this link that one can argue that fashion designers and houses need celebrities and known personalities more than the latter needs the former.
In addition, brand ambassadors are usually people who are well known. There are normally two stages in the brand ambassador type of advertising in fashion. The first is the international brand ambassador. For example, Beyoncé was once the international brand ambassador of Prada.
However, in each country that Prada had stores and branches, the company had to choose a country, or rather national, brand ambassador. These could be musicians, models, actors and other television personalities like news anchors. The main reason for having a national brand ambassador is to fit within the culture of the people involved. As will later be discussed, culture is very important in advertising in fashion.
Indeed, there are companies that do not use celebrities and well-known people and are still successful. Thus, it cannot be argued that the success of the fashion designer lies on the celebrities used to advertise his or her designs and clothes. In the instances where labels used unknown models and ‘next door’ type of characters, they are trying to show that anyone can afford the cloth in question.
Phillips and Edward explain that fashion designers have realized that, even though celebrities help sell their designs they also give people the perception that such designs are only for the wealthy in the society (378). Thus, many have also opted to use unknown models, everyday characters and even dolls to advertise their products.
Free buys and coupons
Morimoto and Chang are of the opinion that free buys and coupons are only relevant strategies when the fashion designer or label is trying to penetrate a new market (179). In such cases, the label or fashion house has to give out coupons and free buys just so that the market can know that they are around and try their products.
The concept of free buys revolves around the ideology of ‘buy one get one free’. Wheaton explains that this concept is used to help the target audience experience the product and then be willing to buy more of it (29). In the fashion industry, the most common free buys include the ‘buy one get one free’ and the ‘buy one get this extra’. In the second free buy, the company gives something for every dress or suit bought. For instance, they could be giving out free ties or even scarfs.
Since everyone likes free things, they are prompted to buy the products. Phillips and Edward argue that companies that use this particular strategy have faith in their quality because the strategy does not go on forever (381). Besides, the company relies on the assumption that the target population will like the design and feel of the outfit and keep buying the company’s products. In the same vein, the use of coupons helps the target audience get the product at a lowered price.
Coupons can be used both when a design house or label is trying to penetrate a market, and when it is already known. International brands like Dior and Prada use coupons as a way of appreciating their clients. However, it is also an advertising strategy as it makes potential clients believe that they are getting a bargain.
Factors to consider
Just like all other kinds of advertising, advertising in fashion requires thought and precision. This section of the essay will analyse three factors that have to be considered when doing and dealing with advertising in fashion.
Target audience
The first thing that has to be considered is the target audience. As mentioned, at the current time, there are very many types of the target audience that have to be considered. It is impossible to make clothes that please and fit everyone. Thus, fashion labels have to examine critically their target audience to determine the best approach to take when not only making their designs, but also advertising them.
As mentioned, there are several avenues used to advertise fashion. Some of them more linked with certain target audiences than others. For example, a film like Fast and Furious will not be used to advertise mom and child matching outfits. However, it will be used to advertise appealing evening wear for both men and women and so forth.
Additionally, while thinking of the target audience, the company in question also has to think of their social status. Normally in films, the poor usually get rich and then acquire a taste for fashion. However, trends are moving towards also giving characters that play poor people in movies a sense of fashion. This advertising strategy has helped encourage people who are not wealthy also aim to look good, modern, and fashionable.
Culture
As mentioned, culture plays a big role in fashion and advertising. Many countries are not as liberal as the United States of America or France. Some of the countries that these international brands like Dior and Prada operate have deeply rooted cultures. For example, there are numerous international brands in Dubai. Dubai is, indeed, an international tourist attraction city, but it is deeply rooted in Islamic culture.
The type of clothing allowed for Islamic men and women is very different from that other people wear. They are mostly covered in hijabs and long dresses so that they do not show any skin. However, both Dior and Prada do not necessarily focus on designing such clothing. Still, despite this, their branches operate on profit in Dubai. How is this so?
The answer to this question lies within the boundaries of advertising. The companies using the culture of the people of Dubai advertise their products without interfering with Sharia law and Muslim culture. Rigorous advertising of these shops are done informing the public who might be travelling to Dubai that their favorite shops are also in the city.
Ignoring the culture of the people will lead to poor advertising. “Blinded by the Light” article explains that even the type of advertisement put up should rely heavily on the culture of the people if it is to be successful (12). It is common sense that advertisements try to show why one product is better than another. In some countries, this cannot be done by directly showing the flaws of one’s competitor while in some countries this kind of advertisement can be done. The fashion house, or label, has to consider this before picking an advertising strategy.
In the same vein, fashion designers have borrowed from cultures all over the world, especially the traditional form of clothing. For instance, the animal print design is one of the currently trending designs. So is the Ankara skirt. Both these designs are borrowed from cultures in Africa. Fashion labels to make trendy outfits that are then sold to the public have modernized the traditional prints and colors.
Competitors
Last but not least, the fashion company involved has also to consider the competitors. International brands have to consider local talent as well. Diedrichs, Phillips and Lee are of the opinion that unlike other products, clothes are nowadays bought for class and style; thus, many people prefer international brands to local brands (1276). Whereas this is true, the international brands still have to consider local talent and brands as they will highlight the weaknesses in the market.
It suffices to mention that international brands also compete against each other. Due to this, the advertising field has not only improved, but it has also determined the best in the field. Those who have used the most creative ways to advertise their products have become more prominent than those who have not invested fully in advertising.
Using the Internet, it has become easier for fashion labels, and stylists, to check out their competitors. This has also led to advertisement wars, for example, if one label launches an advertisement campaign, another label does the same. The Internet has made this easier as it can be done quickly. Before, competitors had to compete for airplay on television and space on newspapers. However, with the Internet, they dictate when, how, and where they want to advertise.
Conclusion
In conclusion, there are very many factors that go into advertising in fashion. Throughout history, the world has moved from word of mouth, television and newspaper advertising to Internet advertising. These changes have also affected advertising in fashion. There are three factors that have to be considered when advertising in fashion.
These are culture, competitors and the target audience, currently, the diversification of the target audience in fashion industry creates a challenge for advertising but labels, and fashion houses have come up with the general ways of advertising to their target audiences.
Some of these ways include using the Internet for the younger generations, using celebrities and media personalities for both the younger and older generations and also placing of fashion items in televisions shows and events. Another strategy that has been used is the giving out of incentives to people who buy the product. However, many have argued that this strategy is best suited where a label is trying to penetrate a new market.
Works Cited
“Blinded by the Light.” Advertising Age 86.10 (2015): 0012-0012. Print.
Diedrichs, Phillippa C., and Christina Lee. “Waif Goodbye! Average-Size Female Models Promote Positive Body Image and Appeal to Consumers.” Psychology & Health 26.10 (2011): 1273-1291. Print.
Givhan, Robin. “Dolce & Gabbana, Exposed.” Newsweek 160.22/23 (2012): 58-59. Print.
Morimoto, Mariko, and Susan Chang. “Western and Asian Models in Japanese Fashion Magazine Ads: The Relationship With Brand Origins and International Versus Domestic Magazines.” Journal of International Consumer Marketing 21.3 (2009): 173-187. Print.
O’Neil, Ashley. “A Call for Truth in the Fashion Pages: What the Global Trend in Advertising Regulation Means for U.S. Beauty and Fashion Advertisers.” Indiana Journal of Global Legal Studies 21.2 (2014): 619-641. Print.
Phillips, Barbara J., and Mcquarrie Edward F. “Narrative and Persuasion in Fashion Advertising.” Journal of Consumer Research 37.3 (2010): 368-392. Print.
Schneier, Matthew. “The Fine-Wine Theory of Fashion Advertising.” New York Times 2015: E4-E4. Print.
Wheaton, Ken. “Levi’s ruins the Fun by Trying too Hard.” Advertising Age 85.16 (2014): 29-29. Print.