Brand Origin
In contrast to other luxury fashion houses with a century-long history, Dolce & Gabbana is considered a relative newcomer. The brand debuted in 1985, and since then, it has remained at the forefront of the fashion industry. D&G was founded by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, two Italian assistant designers with backgrounds in the graphics and clothing business. The first runway with pioneering designs occurred as a part of the New Talent group in 1985 in Milan (Reinach, n.d.). The duo was invited by the Italian fashion promoter Beppe Modenese, who saw the immense potential of the brand and thus kickstarted its development.
The first complete collection showcased by D&G got the name Donne Vere (Real Women) and was part of the women’s fall/winter 1986/1987 runway (Polan & Tredre, 2009). The collection’s name was inspired by local women who also participated as models in the show. It must be noted that the collection did not have the anticipated reaction, leading to some financial hurdles for the brand. However, in 1987, D&G issued its second collection, the Il Gattopardo (The Leopard), and in the same year, launched the underwear and beachwear lines (Polan& Tredre, 2009). In 1988, the duo started manufacturing the ready-to-wear line in the Legnano, Milan atelier that Domenico Dolce’s family owned.
Brand Development
Two years passed, and the brand started getting more expansion opportunities; by 1990, D&G was being exported worldwide, including the US and Japan. The same year, the company issued its men’s collection and its first perfume, Dolce & Gabbana. Throughout the 1990s, the company saw immense growth and hit the milestone revenue of US $500 million (Gerben Trademark Library, 2023). In 2003, less than twenty years since D&G’s inception, the company registered US $633 million in revenues.
Significant business expansion with Dolce & Gabbana has been attributed to the company’s attention to brand identity and telling a story to build a close connection with its target consumer. In 1996, which marked the tenth anniversary of the brand, the duo issued a book, Ten Years of Dolce & Gabbana, edited by Isabella Rossellini, which included the most crucial and defining advertising images, texts, and photography(Gerben Trademark Library, 2023).The back cover states, “In oversized photos and full color, this lavish volume presents a stunning collection of clothing designs by Dolce & Gabbana, providing a comprehensive view of their best work over the past decade” (Rossellini, 1996). The attention to detail in everything the designers did helped establish a brand reputation recognized worldwide.
In 2003, D&G opened its new flagship store in Corso Venezia, Milan, covering three floors. It was meticulously designed to capture the brand’s essence and provide its customers with an all-around luxury experience. In addition to its boutique sections, the store includes a traditional barber shop, a spa, and a bar. Domenico Dolce designed intricate lamps made of Venini glass that would illuminate the individual stores at the boutique. Therefore, the success of D&G’s brand development was attributed to eliciting a positive emotional reaction from the target consumer.
The designers worked insistently to create a distinct D&G look characterized by craftsmanship, luxury, and a new form of elegance that presents itself as modern classicism. Even though the brand has developed over the decades, it has always valued its designs’ roots and Mediterranean influence. The admiration for the brand is achieved through creating items of perceived luxury that can spark an emotional response that becomes coveted. Dolce & Gabbana has worked with such celebrities as Madonna, Demi Moore, Cindy Crawford, Jennifer Lopez, the Kardashians, and dozens of others to capture the brand’s essence in the designs. When customers see their beloved celebrities wearing D&G, they are more likely to covet the items from the brand.
Brand Controversies
Regarding company development, it is crucial to note some controversy to which the brand was subjected. Notably, Dolce & Gabbana was accused of racism and homophobia in light of the several campaigns and personal opinions stated by its founders. In a 2012 runway show, white models were wearing earrings that looked similar to the colonial “Blackamoor” caricature statues depicting Black people (Pauly, 2023). In 2015, Domenico Dolce publicly spoke against same-sex couples having children: “I’m not convinced with what I call chemical children, a rented uterus, semen selected from a catalog” (Pauly, 2023, para. 6).
In 2016, the brand released a pair of sandals costing $2,395 called “Slave Sandal in Napa Leather with Pompoms” (Pauly, 2023). It remains unclear whether the company embraced controversy as one of its marketing tools or did not have good PR. Nevertheless, in collaboration with Kim Kardashian, the latest collection sparked a new wave of interest for D&G and invited target consumers to enjoy a new release. Despite the criticism, D&G is likely to continue its work and sustain itself as one of the most influential brands in the fashion industry.
References
Gerben Trademark Library. (2023). Dolce & Gabbana trademarks. Web.
Pauly, A. (2023). As the industry cheers Dolce & Gabbana, don’t forget their not-so-brief history of racism. Web.
Polan, B., & Tredre, R. (2009). The great fashion designers. Berg Publishers.
Reinach, S. S. (n.d.). Dolce & Gabbana brand history. Web.
Rossellini, I. (1996). 10 years of Dolce & Gabbana. Abbeville Press.