1990s fashion: a challenge of the decade
Fashion is an important feature which makes a clear definition of the prevailing idealism and zeitgeist of a certain period. It is through fashion that people express themselves, who they are, and what kind of people they are. Fashion gives people an avenue for valuing and appreciating the aesthetic values of things and the environment. This is probably one reason why fashion is considered as an art over the years. Fashion and art shares a common ground, the same purpose and jives together most especially in the aspect of beauty and style.
The decade of the 1990s was a period wherein great changes have occurred in the modern world. It acted as the transition period of almost all aspects. The decade served as the kick off of the twentieth century and therefore became a time when many ideas and trends existed.
One of the facets wherein great transition has been observed was fashion. From a more consuming and conspicuous style of the 1980s, a more defined and individualized style of dressing and composing oneself emerged in the succeeding decade. During the 1980s, the most common styles which we can think of are those of a woman wearing oversized shoulder pads and big embellished shirts (Thomas, n. d.). In the next decade, these conceptions of 1980s fashion became less used until they became “phased out” in the industry and in the world of fashion.
However, this certain decade was also coined as the “anti-fashion” because of several reasons. Anti-fashion refers to the rejection of the mainstream fashion style. It is a type of deviance which may tend to be defiant and offensive (Anti-Fashion, 2005). It was also a time when many fashion trends overlapped each other and contradicted other emerging styles. Because of this, many liberal ideas and images arose. Furthermore, this led to the concept that the 1990s period was a time when the boundary between fashion and art became blurred.
One factor that brought about this struggle in the world of fashion was the idea of individualism. During this decade, many fashion enthusiasts were not anymore considering what was popular and in. More emphasis was given on the person’s individual sense of style and permanent fashion was not common that time. Because of this, many people, most especially the stylists came up with catchy and attention-seeking sense of style. This happened to the extent that many styles are already shocking and outrageous in the sense that it already promotes unhealthful acts and behaviors among the consumers, most especially the youth.
The dominant styles of clothes during the 1990s decade were those fit and less-stiff styles compared to that of the 1980s. Also, more focus is given on the use of preppy clothes, most especially for females, rather than tight and boxy outfits (Proctor, 2006). Sporty outfit have been given emphasis, most especially with the production of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger outfits which looks either casual or formal- making style more easy and convenient. Even prominent personalities, like US President Bill Clinton, are not afraid of being on camera even in relaxed tees and shorts. Even in workplaces, the adoption of wearing casual clothes in offices started and spread out from this decade. Because of these trends, relaxed attitudes when it comes to fashion were at large. This characteristic of 1990s decade is one positive facet of the story. However, there were more turmoil and inconveniences that happened during the decade compared to these good outlooks.
One lamentation of fashion during the 1990s was the emergence of the “grunge” music with its complement style (American Decades, 2005). Grunge music refers to the rock and hard core music which were portrayed by rock icons like Pearl Jam and Nirvana. From then on, the “rocker” look became a talk of the town. Many were adopting the dark clothes and plaid flannel shirts. Appreciation of this rock type of music is not something to castigate since it is a good thing that people came to value the art of music during those times. However, the age reached to an extent which is already intolerable- most especially in teenagers. Things like growing long hairs for both genders, piercing all over the body, messy look and style- these are unhealthy to the public most especially to the teens who are at their critical stage of life.
Another controversial thing about fashion is the use and promotion of furs by fashion designers and cloth-lines. While some fashion companies discourage its use, still, many are looking for it and many are using it because of its glamorous look and royal-like symbolism. However, due to the interventions of some animal-rights agencies and movements, the use of fur was starting to decline before it even reaches the climax (Drake, 2000).
Among the most popular designers during the decade were Vivienne Westwood and Jean-Paul Gaultier. Westwood’s popularity and career started when she first met Malcom McLaren, the lead man of Sex Pistols- who would later play a big role in her career. Having a creative and sophisticated outlook in fashion, Westwood played with fashion and fashion paid her back with stardom. Westwood came to be known as one of the most controversial fashion designers especially in her early years in the fashion scene.
McLaren, Westwood’s husband, used her designs and creations in his band’s debut gig and as expected, fans and viewers were really outraged by the style of their wardrobes (HotCelebrity.co.uk). Westwood surprised the general public with her outrageous and shocking designs of sexually promoting and explicit styles. This led to many controversies and indignations from the conformists. However, it was unexpected that people, especially punk lovers started mimicking their style and patronized the style of the Sex Pistols. There was a great diversion from the grunge style, which was emergent during the 1990s, into the punk style which was more obscene in all terms. Teenagers started to gather in her store called “Seditionaries/SEX” and this started the limelight of her career (Fashion Case Study: Vivienne Westwood).
As she continued her career in the 1990s, her knowledge about history and art became her edge as she featured some historical themes, to which she added the punk and moderns style. In those designs, Westwood further made her impression with her tagline “Fashion is about sex.” Bearing this credo, her line of clothes were marked and resented by advocates of conservative people. Instead of conforming with the descent styles of fashion, Westwood took a great risk in playing with her designs and portraying explicit looks and sexually promiscuous modes of fashion. Her style, also known as the “non-conformist” style (Menkes, 2004) proved to be a manifestation of the blurry bond between fashion and art. Until today, Westwood’s creations still never ceases to stir up the public because of her skillful yet vulgar presentation of her own style.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, a contemporary designer of Westwood, is considered as fashion’s enfant terrible or bad boy. He was a fashion provocateur who, like Westwood, is fond of playing with clothes and fashion (Fashion Case Study: Jean-Paul Gaultier). Yet, he is one of those risk takers who became very successful in their careers.
Gaultier is famous for his playful styles in presenting fashion like cross dressing models. Men are dressed in female clothes and women are dressed in male outfits. HE gained both critical acclamations and resentments because of his sexually oriented and explicit materials being ramped and presented to the general public. One of Gaultier’s most famous works is Madonna’s conical bra used in her “Blond Ambitions Tour.” Gaultier also collaborated with famous artists and designed many famous outfits for celebrities around the globe.
Unlike other fashion designers, Gaultier produced haute-couture not only for the women but for the men as well. He emphasized the equality of gender, so he says. Although his works may be considered at least over the edge, we cannot deny that he is a talented and flared designer (Modern Fashion Encyclopedia).
Gaultier’s creations were both highly anticipated and castigated just like Westwood’s because of their practices in deviating the norms of the society in terms of decent fashion. Usually, Gaultier uses unlikely models in his fashion shows like fat and obese women wearing skimpy outfits which would really catch the attention of the public. The use of elderly models with tattoos and piercing is also one of his unconventional styles of presenting his line of clothes. He also emphasized cross dressing and cross-breeding of clothes. Gaultier made use of his knowledge of historical fashion and combined several fashions from different eras- all in one design. This way, many fashion enthusiasts and collectors were impressed and patronized his clothes. What’s more is that Gaultier’s rate is very reasonable unlike other creations of prominent designers. These qualities of Gaultier made him loved by the fashion-oriented people and negatively-criticized by the conservative advocates.
The works of these two famous designers are concrete examples of how art and fashion’s link became blurred and how these two aspects- which are supposed to be compact suddenly became two separate and contradicting entities. Art and fashions strong bond suddenly became brittle and started to develop conflict over time. Because of the fast emerging number of designers who are enthusiastic about breaking into the world of fashion designing, each of them created their own mark which they think would make an impression about their styles.
Gaultier’s and Westwood’s efforts of breaking into the fashion scene were a wise and unusual act. It is wise and unusual in a sense that they really thought of their strategy well- that is, using the unconventional and non-conformist style of clothing and manner of presenting them to the general public. However, this doesn’t mean that their works are worth the commendations and acclamations because we cannot deny that their sense of style also affected the way of living of people. Everything has a negative side as so are the work of Westwood and Gaultier.
During the 1990s, the effect of these fashion styles were considered more detrimental than beneficial because of the provocative and perverse ideas being conveyed by the clothes and fashion shows to the general public. These fashion designers are a blessing to the fashion industry and at the same time, they are something to lament when the perspective shifts into morality and decency. Designers during this decade were on the hot-seat because of these issues and controversies; however, because of their enthusiasm and dedication to their work, they can easily justify their modes and meet both ends of their fashions.
Fashion is an important facet of history. It is the factor which distinct one era from another. It identifies the people’s social orientation, prevailing ideas, and most of all the common morale of the people. In terms of the 1990s decade, there were many factors to consider and justify the notion that the boundary between fashion and art became blurred.
Individualism was at large and everyone wasn’t afraid of styling themselves the way they wanted to. Conforming to the common style wasn’t a big issue then- it only emerged in the later part of the decade. Because of individualism, many different styles emerged and came to the eyes of the public. The response of the designers to this trend of individualism was to produce crafts which would catch the attention of the public. This gave birth to the non-conformist designers who were a manifestation of the widening gap between fashion and art.
Fashion and art are on the verge of becoming two separate entities and therefore, the 1990s decade was a big challenge to maintain the mutual bond between the two aspects. Until these days, there are still remnants of the 1990s fashion. We can still see traces of these fashions which are artistic yet obscene. However, due to the flexibility of the people for compliance and the ability to transcend from this challenge of the period, the link between art and fashion is gradually becoming obvious, once again. And because of the successful crossing from the twentieth to the twenty-first century, these challenges with regards to fashion were nevertheless considered as important milestones of the previous century toward the new millennium.
References
- Drake, Alicia. 2000, ‘Once a Pariah, Now Fashion’s Darling: Fur Returns With a Vengeance’, International Herald Tribune, (On-line). Web.
- Menkes, Suzy. 2004, ‘Westwood’s nonconformist panache’, International Herald Tribune. (On-line).
- Proctor, Thomas. 2006, ‘Step Back a Decade with the 1990s Fashion,’ Fashion Trends for All. (On-line)
- Thomas, Pauline W. n.d. ‘1990s Fashion History: The Mood of the Millennium Part 1’, Fashion-Era.com,(On-line).
- 2005, ‘Fashion from American Decades’, Bookrags.com, (On-line). Web.
- 2005, ‘Free Fashion Five- Anti Fashion’, Final Fashion, (On-line).
- 2006, ‘Gaultier marks 30 years as fashion’s ‘bad boy’, SAWF News. (On-line). Web.