Introduction
The 21st century has introduced a range of new phenomena and instilled profound transformations across various industries. As the global concerns over climate change intensified, the environmental impact of humanity has become evident. In this regard, experts and policy-makers have engaged in a pursuit of better, sustainable practices that would enable the economic development while alleviating its detrimental impact on the environment. The fashion industry is one of such sectors in which the environmental concerns have been on an increase. Indeed, the scale of fashion and textile production is colossal, as the vast majority of the world’s population uses its services. Thus, the scale and impact of this industry is equally extensive, which prompts the major players within it to seek new, sustainable solutions.
Waste management is one of the key approaches to the environmental impact mitigation within the textile and fashion sector. It generally consists of reducing the amount of production waster by increased recycling and reuse of fabrics and products. However, in spite of the topical nature of the matter, it is possible to assume an uneven commitment to the principles of sustainability and waste management across various context. This review explores the issue of waste management sustainability in the fashion industry, reflecting upon the world’s best practices with a focus on the situation in the United Kingdom.
Review of the Literature
The present paper aims to determine whether waste management remains the key element of ensuring sustainability of the fashion industry in the UK. In order to accomplish this objective, a comprehensive review of the contemporary body of knowledge is to be conducted. It is to review the core concept of sustainability management, which determines the scope and scale of the mission on a global level. More specifically, the research is to encompass the leading sustainability practices within the fashion industry. In spite of the presence of the overarching goal, the exact nature and direction of sustainable policies may vary across different contexts and regions of the globe. Thus, the knowledge of the best international practices will enhance the expertise of researchers and policy-makers in the U.K. Finally, the role of the waste-management within the overall paradigm is to be discussed, based on the contemporary academic data. The review is to include recent findings within the discussed sphere of knowledge taken from the articles published within the last five years in the English language. This information is to be synthesized to conclude the discussion.
The Pursuit of Sustainability Management
Sustainability is widely recognized as a notion which bears complexity and depth, making a superficial understanding of it dangerous. More specifically, this principles includes an intricate set of interrelated factors that must be considered within effective contemporary policies. Williams et al. (2017) confirm that sustainability has become a matter of intense interest for researchers and experts across the globe, representing different settings. Within their articles, sustainability management reflects the interconnection of its economic, political, social, and environmental dimensions. Furthermore, in spite of the evident complexity, the contemporary body of knowledge surrounding sustainability management remains fragmented. Williams et al. (2017) observe a persistent growth trend in sustainability research, as managers and policy-makers intensify their search of the best practices. The authors affirm the importance of the consolidated, comprehensive knowledge that relies on the interdisciplinary perspective and reflects the importance of the notion in its full complexity. This idea explains the necessity of a wider scope of sustainability research. When discussing the current status of the U.K. fashion industry, it is vital to incorporate a variety of views and ideas that relate to adjacent regions and industries.
For many researchers, the accuracy and depth of sustainability knowledge become the primary determinants of the overall project success. In other words, in order to attain the ultimate objective, the path to it should rely on specific, evidence-based practices that contribute to the general purpose. This assumption is central to the discussion provided by Carvalho and Rabechini (2017), in which they explore the exact relation between sustainability management and project success. Their research emphasizes an important dimension of the multi-faceted concept of sustainability. More specifically, this notion does not merely imply enhanced environmental awareness and the use of green practices. Instead, it equally promotes the industrial development that can be sustained across a longer period. Thus, the relation between sustainability and commercial success is direct and positive. This idea intersects with the findings provided by Williams et al. (2017) who see sustainability as a complex entity, encompassing social, economic, and environmental relations. Effective and informed practices of sustainability management help the firms attain a better level of cost-efficiency, providing their stakeholders with better value while reducing the environmental impact of the operations.
Therefore, as can be inferred from the discussion, sustainability is a matter of balance. In a way, this notion refers to a positive unity of multi-dimensional practices that meet a set of contextual requirements. For Aragon-Correa et al. (2017), this unity comprises three P’s: people, planet, and profits. Such a simply paradigm reflects the complexity of sustainability, which, if executed correctly, meets the demands on these three levels. For people, it provides safer products and services with better value that contribute to the quality of life. For the planet, the reduced environmental impact normalizes the natural processes, mitigating the effect of humanity’s activities. Finally, the firms themselves benefit from the effective sustainability management, as they have the potential to reduce costs and optimize the use of raw materials. For the fashion industry, for example, effective waste management implies that considerable amounts of fabrics, which were previously discarded, can be saved and repurposed for new collections. Through these methods, manufacturers and suppliers reduce their expenses and become closer to a safer, sustainable future.
Sustainability in the Fashion Industry
The ideas and policies related to sustainability hold a place of paramount importance within the sustainability industry. The reason for such a status of the issue is associated with the colossal levels of production, use, and consumption of these products on a global level. This perspective is central to the discussion provided by Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir (2019). They observe a strong, distinct connection between the activities within the fashion industry and its immense environmental impact. For these authors, the topical objective is to investigate the incorporation of sustainability practices into business models and observe their effect on the commercial and environmental performance of different firms. According to Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir (2019), sustainability in fashion and textiles exists in a nexus with corporate social responsibility. Furthermore, its increasing pursuit is instigated by such drivers as “government and regulatory pressure, market pressure, closed-loop pressure, value creation, innovation, equity, authenticity, functionality, localism, and exclusivity” (Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir, 2019, para. 1). Therefore, sustainability management plays a role of pivotal importance for the fashion industry, becoming one the central strategic goals.
Under the influence of the current major processes, the industry has been undergoing major transformations, as well. Gazzola et al. (2020) observe major significant changes “in the competitive scenario in which fashion companies operate, combined with deep transformation in the lifestyles of final consumers” (p. 1). More specifically, sustainability and environmental policies extend beyond the realm of business models and strategies, becoming the new standard of living of companies’ clients. Thus, fashion industry companies experience a strong bilateral pressure in terms of sustainability. From one perspective, governments and regulators implement additional policies that prompt industry players to adjust their models. On the other hand, consumers also expect manufacturers and distributors to make meaningful environmental efforts that yield tangible results. These ideas are in line with the observations of the key industry drivers provided by Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir (2019). However, the consumer perspective is gaining importance in the current environment, as the clients play the role of the primary stakeholders. In this regard, the involvement of younger generations will be crucial in establishing long-term sustainability policies.
Accordingly, the current state of the sustainability pursuit in the fashion industry is characterize by growing involvement of consumers as the key stakeholders. The public now pays attention to the environmental efforts made by manufacturers and distributors, and non-compliance with the common principles put even the most prominent player at risk. According to Joy and Peña (2017), in the context of sustainable development, the values of the companies and their stakeholders must be in line to form a positive synergy. Furthermore, this struggle should not be the means of personal gratification for the firms. Instead, the necessity of modifying the approach to environmental policies and implementing viable solutions needs to become the cornerstone of the initiatives. Similar to Gazzola et al. (2020), the authors appraise the role of the end consumers in the formation of today’s policies, referring to them as the ultimate impetus of sustainability management for the fashion industry. Indeed, without the clients, all suppliers, manufacturers, and distributors will lose the essential source of revenues, virtually rendering their operations fruitless.
Waste Management as the Pillar of Sustainability in the Fashion Industry
Within the scope of the sustainability pursuit in the fashion industry, there may be different approaches to minimising the environmental impact of the sector. In general, waste management is recognised as the most prominent method of achieving sustainability within the contemporary body of literature. This notion implies minimising the quantity of waste produced and discarded along all elements of the fashion industry supply chain. Aishwariya (2018) refers to recycling as the primary instrument of waste management in the industry. At present, companies implement new projects, collecting used garments. Consumers are encouraged to partake is such initiatives and recycle their clothes through progressive discount and bonus systems. The use of recycled materials equally makes the manufacturing process less expensive, which contributes to the cost-efficiency of the production. This way, the pursuit of sustainability meets the expectations of both companies and stakeholders. This mutually beneficial cooperation reflects the complex interrelatedness of sustainability management as a phenomenon that extends beyond verbal compliance with environmental initiatives.
At the same time, today’s fashion industry has ventured beyond recycling, coining a more comprehensive term, which is upcycling. According to Singh et al. (2019), this notion refers to “a process in which used or waste products and materials are repaired, reused, repurposed, refurbished, upgraded and remanufactured” (para. 1). Moreover, upcycling procedures are performed in a creative way that brings new life to the waste and enhances its value. This touch of creativity was necessary to improve the image of recycled materials among consumers. Indeed, certain conservative groups may perceive such clothes and products as “second-hand” and actual waste that is being sold at a full price. Upcycling subverts these expectations, making waste management creative and interesting, contributing to the quality and lifetime of materials. Nevertheless, Singh et al. (2019) note that it remains largely a niche practice that is yet to see the full-scale implementation within the global fashion industry. The leading firms that practice upcycling continue to increase and consolidate their efforts, attempting to engage a wider circle of stakeholders. Overall, the tendency is positive in this regard, as more actors become involved in the process.
The effective use of recycling and upcycling in the fashion industry aligns with the general trends of a circular economy. This term is actively used by Shirvanimoghaddam et al. (2020) in their discussion of the textile use and production. More specifically, the waste management as a pressing necessity emerged because of humanity’s continuous lack of attention to the proper treatment of resources and materials. For centuries, the simplest solution was to discard any concerns and throw waste in a bin. Recycling, reusing, and repurposing were not considered viable options, as the finite nature of resources was not evident, either. Nevertheless, as the industry attained a truly global scale, especially in the mass-market niche, its environmental impact became evident. The concept of a circular economy promotes the continuous use of any available resources and materials as long as they are able to meet the requirements of the product. This idea is critical, as effective waste management does not imply a compromise in terms of quality and, thus, should not be associated with it. As these notions are adopted by more companies and stakeholders, the fashion industry’s sustainability becomes tangible.
The Case of the U.K.
In spite of the global character of sustainability practices and their importance, the exact implementation of these principles remains subject to geographical variations. In other words, sustainability management of the fashion industry acquires a different image depending on the nation. The United Kingdom stands among the world’s most developed countries, making its market a prominent one on a global scale. In addition, the country is characterised by an increased level of environmental awareness exhibited by the industry’ key stakeholders. Zhang et al. (2021) expand this idea, researching the consumer attitude to the fashion industry’s sustainability in the U.K. According to their findings, this principle becomes crucial in the purchasing behaviour on this market. More specifically, a broader range of consumers opts for the companies that pursue sustainability and visibly implement it in practice. However, the authors acknowledge the necessity of more comprehensive actions in the fast-fashion segment, namely in terms of waste management. In this regard, mid-to-high end brands show better levels of sustainability performance, contributing the image of the industry, in general.
At the same time, the U.K.’s fashion industry has a strong influence on the market beyond the national borders. Millions of foreign consumers are attracted to the British brands and often seek them during their stay in the United Kingdom. Thus, the country’s industry bears additional responsibilities in terms of promoting sustainability and defining its image on an international level. Henninger et al. (2017) state that the luxurious segment of the U.K,’s fashion industry is particularly popular among Chinese consumers. The authors note that the “luxurious” status of a brand has been a major factor in the purchasing behaviour of this group. However, sustainable fashion has become a complementary factor in the decision-making process. For many people, sustainable is an equivalent of fashionable, meaning that such models of responsible production and use align with the global trends. While this perception may serve the purposes of the sustainability pursuit, it does not comply with one of its main principles. More specifically, sustainability is expected to be informed and responsible, meaning that both companies and shareholders need to understand its purposes and agendas.
Finally, the industry’s pursuit of sustainability should be comprehensive, as well. This idea is voiced by Goworek et al. (2020) who argue that the environmental impact of the fashion segment occurs at all its stages. The production, distribution, and disposal stages of the garments’ lifespan accumulate this effect, preventing the industry from achieving sustainability. In fact, Goworek et al. (2020) observe a growing tendency of extended waste management in the U.K. Indeed, fashion companies offer new opportunities of recycling and upcycling, and consumers actively partake in such initiatives. In this context, the waste management efforts are directed at repurposing and reusing the materials, giving them a new life. However, Goworek et al. (2020) note that the disposal phase continues to account for most of the industry’s environmental impact. Thus, the focus of attention should shift from smarter disposal of the waste to reducing its total quantity. This objective can be accomplished through the increased longevity of the products in the U.K. market. This way, garments will serve for a longer period, postponing indefinitely the necessity of waste disposal, whether it is smart or not.
Conclusion
Ultimately, waste management remains the central element of the sustainability pursuit in the U.K.’s fashion industry. The 21st century has introduced new, unprecedented challenges, and this method of environmental impact mitigation appears to meet the immediate needs of the industry. The concept of sustainability per se is an integral component of the fashion and textile sectors of today across the globe. However, its particular features actively depend on the specifics of the market. The trends observed in the U.K. align with the global pursuit of sustainability. More specifically, the country’s fashion industry relies on waste management as the primary means of ensuring sustainability both in the short and long term.
Recycling and repurposing of the materials are the key elements of these initiatives, with upcycling taking an increasingly important position. However, researchers acknowledge the necessity of more advanced measures, which would correspond to the status of the country as one of the global fashion leaders. In this regard, the U.K. currently lacks longevity-centred models of textile sustainability that have the potential to have a more profound effect on waste reduction. The subsequent research can focus on the exact avenues of attaining better longevity of the U.K.’s fashion products, as well as the country’s ability to promote sustainable fashion globally.
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